![]() One of the first dishes I learned to make was French toast. Over the years I have gradually changed the recipe, adding spices, sugar and vanilla to the mix; but with the use of the technique of Translation opens a multitude of new possibilities. Since I am concentrating on form; how can I change the form of French toast? I found some mini spring-form pans at my local kitchen shop and this idea naturally developed. If you do not have these mini pans you may use any small cake pan or even large muffin tins may be used. You may even go a step further and make your own form using a can that has its top and bottom removed (just remember to remove any sharp edges). Let your imagination run wild experimenting with different types of bread or perhaps even using leftover donuts or cinnamon rolls cut into pieces. You can further customize your creation by adding fresh or dried fruits, chopped nuts or even bits of chocolate. Ingredients: 4 Slices of Bread (preferably day old) 4 Large Eggs 1 Cup Half and Half Butter 1 Tbsp. sugar 1/2 tsp. Cinnamon pinch Nutmeg pinch Ground Cloves 1 Tbsp. Vanilla Maple Syrup or your favorite toppings such as fresh strawberries Optional: Dried fruit such as raisins and or chopped toasted nuts Equipment: 2 Mini Spring Form Pans Round Cutter slightly smaller than Spring Form Baking Sheet pan with parchment paper or Silicone baking sheet Cut a circle slightly smaller then the spring form pan out of two of the slices of Bread and dice the rest into ¾ inch cubes. You can optionally cut four circles and use one for the top and one for the bottom but I prefer just two so the dish is a bit more rustic looking. Beat eggs in a bowl with half and half, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and vanilla. Preheat a skillet to medium heat add a small amount of butter. Dip the round cut pieces of bread in the egg mixture and brown on one side. Place the rounds browned side down into the spring form pans. Pour the egg mixture over the bread cubes and fill the spring forms with the moistened bread cubes (if you have cut extra circles for the top, finish with the tops browned side up. Optionally you can also add toasted nuts, chocolate pieces or dried fruit such as raisins to the moistened bread cubes). Bake in a 325 degree oven until done (about 30 minutes). Variation - Use a small circle cutter (I use my cannoli form) to create a well in the center which can be filled with fruit, nuts, and preserves and into which warm syrup could be added. To assemble unmold each and serve with your favorite toppings, or my favorite, a good quality warm maple syrup. Serves two or cut each in half for four smaller servings.
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![]() What can be better then bacon and eggs then to give it an Italian twist? The last thing I was talking about in Translation was form (see Translation) and this idea is a great example. This idea came to me because of my love for Italian deserts. While working in Boston, I spent many nights exploring the north end and the many restaurants. One night I was invited to accompany two young ladies to a small Italian bakery to experience the best cannoli’s in Boston in exchange for seeing them safely through the construction of the big dig to the subway. When I started this project, I toyed with the idea of stuffing eggs in cannoli shells for a bacon and eggs dish but then I had an inspiration. Why not use bacon as the cannoli shell and make a dish any bacon lover would love. After some experimentation, I was able to put together my Italian style bacon and egg cannoli’s. I added the parmesan crisps to add additional texture and a punch of flavor. Instead of toast, bruschetta with a touch of fresh basil, garlic, diced heirloom tomato, a great spicy olive oil and sea salt with a touch of red pepper flake. I could add a shaped piece of grilled polenta with some flavoring to give it some interest or maybe some sautéed greens (my wife's idea). Bacon Cannoli This idea seems simple but it packs a great visual statement; crispy tubes of thick sliced bacon filled with a mixture of eggs and cheese. What could be more simple? Ingredients: 8 slices of thick sliced bacon 6 Large Eggs ⅓ Cup grated Parmesan Reggiano 3 Tbsp. Butter Cooking spray Equipment: 4 cannoli molds (tubes) Sheet pan Parchment paper or silicone baking sheet Piping bag and tip (or use a plastic Ziploc bag with the corner cut off) Optional: Sous vide setup and whipped cream canister Spray each of the cannoli molds with cooking spray. Score the sides of the bacon slices to help prevent curling. Loosely roll the bacon around the mold over-lapping the bacon then start the second piece ½ inch under the first and continuing until complete. Place on a parchment covered sheet pan with the end underneath to keep the bacon from un-rolling. Repeat for the rest of the molds. Place the sheet pan in the oven and set the oven to 400° F. Bake until browned (12-18 minutes) and let cool. Carefully remove from the mold and reserve. Prepare either sous vide scrambled eggs or creamy scrambled eggs using both the Parmesan cheese and the butter. If you use the sous vide method add the cheese and butter to the pouch before cooking the eggs. To fill the bacon cannoli’s, put the eggs into a piping bag and pipe into the bacon rounds or if you have whipped cream dispenser, load the eggs into the canister, charge and fill the bacon shells. Serves two large or four smaller servings. Bruschetta Bruschetta is the perfect replacement for toast in this meal. A topping of fresh tomatoes with fresh basil, chopped garlic, red pepper and a sprinkle of finishing salt anointed with extra virgin olive oil helps cut through the fattiness of the bacon and provides a necessary textural element. I have also used chard instead of the basil and tomato if great tomatoes are not available. Ingredients: 2 thick slices of good quality day old Italian bread 1 clove garlic peeled and sliced in half 1 clove garlic finely chopped 1 large or 2 medium heirloom tomatoes 3 to 4 large fresh basil leaves pinch red pepper flakes Finishing salt Slice on the bias 2 one inch thick pieces of Itailian bread and reserve until needed. Dice the tomato and place in a bowl. Stack the basil leaves with the larger leaves on the bottom and roll up like a cigar; then slice into thin strips (chiffonade) and add to the tomatoes. Finely chop one clove of garlic and add to the tomatoes with a pinch of red pepper flakes. Toast or grill the bread until nicely browned and rub with the second piece of garlic. It should melt into the bread. Top with the tomato mixture and top with a pinch of finishing salt and a drizzle of good quaility extra virgin olive oil and serve. Cheese Pancetta Polenta Living in the south for a few years I became acclimated to cheese grits and keeping with the Italian theme I want to utilize pancetta, fontina and pecorino romano cheeses. Switching to Italian polenta made from flint corn creates a more textural mouth feel and the addition of crispy pancetta and authentic Italian cheese adds a salty accent. I like to make my polenta the day before and let it set up overnight. I just need to cut an interesting shape and grill it before serving. Ingredients: 2 cups good quality polenta 3 cups chicken stock 1 cup milk Salt to taste ½ pound pancetta ½ large sweet onion 1 cup grated pecorino Romano 1 cup grated Fontina cheese 1 Tbsp. Olive oil Salt and Pepper to taste Finely dice the pancetta and onion. Heat a skillet on medium heat; add the oil and pancetta and sauté until the fat begins to render. Add in the onions and continue to cook until the pancetta is crispy. Reserve. Add chicken stock and milk to a large stock pot. Taste and correct seasoning and bring to a boil. Whisk in polenta and cook until done. Grate the cheeses and add to the polenta and stir to mix. Add pancetta and onions and blend thoroughly. Taste and correct seasoning. Spray a glass baking dish with non-stick spray. Let the polenta cool then pour into the glass baking dish, smoothing the polenta into a single layer. Refrigerate overnight. Unmold the polenta onto a cutting board and cut into triangles or another desired shape. Grill the polenta and keep warm until ready to use . Creates twelve large triangles. Refrigerate remaining pieces and use within a week ![]() I am always looking for great ways to save some calories without sacrificing taste. Changing the form of a BLT enables me to cut down on the bread and increase the lettuce with a dramatic decrease of calories and I know there are a lot of people out there that want to lose some weight. I'd wish I could say that I was sitting in a restaurant eating a lettuce wrap when inspiration struck but to be honest I was just looking for a low-calorie option for breakfast. When I thought about a breakfast salad everything fell into place; the tomatoes and lettuce the stars and give the bacon and bread a supporting role. All I have to do is wrap everything in the lettuce leaf and I have the same elements in a different yet familiar form, reinforcing the premise that inspiration is based on exposure to multiple ideas and just bringing it all together in an unique way. Ingredients: 4 pounds fresh firm tomatoes 1 head iceberg or butter lettuce 10 pieces thick sliced bacon 3-4 slices of thin sliced dense bread 10 fresh basil leaves 3 tbsp. olive oil Salt and Pepper to taste Optional: Sliced avocado Equipment: Sheet Pans Silpat silicone baking sheet or parchment paper Stockpot Ice-bath Sauté pan Preheat oven to 350° F. Dice the bread into small cubes, drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and spread out in a sheet pan lined with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet. Bake until brown and crispy and reserve. Bring a stock pot of water to boil and prepare an ice-bath. Core out the stem end of the tomatoes with a paring knife and cut a small X in the opposite end. Blanch the tomatoes for 30 seconds to loosen the skins then transfer to the ice-bath to cool down. Remove the skins, de-seed and dice into ¼ inch pieces. Reserve. Heat a sauté pan on medium heat. Cut the bacon into ⅓ inch pieces and sauté until crisp. Transfer to a paper towel to dry. Reserve. Roll up the basil leaves length-wise and finely cut into fine ribbons (chiffonade). Core the lettuce and cut lengthwise in half, remove the outer leaves and discard. Separate the lettuce into individual leaves and reserve. In a bowl mix the tomatoes, bacon and basil. Taste and season with salt and pepper. To serve add the tomato mixture on top of the lettuce leaf, sprinkle with croutons and roll. If you like you can slice some avocado and add to the wrap. Serves 4 to 6. ![]() My wife Susan loves her morning oatmeal and sometimes will enjoy it with a poached egg on top that when broken melts into the oatmeal giving it a lovely richness. Using my egg ring molds, I started experimenting first with toasting rounds of oatmeal and adding a poached egg on top. Then inspiration struck, why not make an indentation for the egg and cover it with a lid of oatmeal. Simply altering the form into a cylinder adds a interesting presentation and breaking into the egg inside yields a golden surprise. Toasting the oatmeal in the pan creates a wonderful contrast of textures adding an interesting crunchy element. I can also brulee the sugar with a torch on the top to add more texture and some sweetness or just serve with some maple syrup. Add some berries for a garnish. This dish is only possible if the oatmeal is stiff enough; if the oatmeal is too moist it will not hold its shape when unmolded. This is a great example how form can create a whole new dish that is fun and different. Note: I had some suggestions saying the egg could be replaced with diced fruit, yogurt, jam or whatever you can think of to make it your own! Ingredients: 3/4 Cup Steel-cut precooked Oatmeal (1/2 Cup for base,1/4 Cup for lid) 1 Medium Egg 1 Tbsp. of your favorite Shredded cheese Butter Salt and pepper for seasoning Maple Syrup Optional - Berries for garnish Equipment: 2 Egg Rings ½ Cup metal measuring cup Preheat a ten inch non-stick pan on medium heat Butter both egg rings and put in pan and add small pat of butter in each ring. Place 1/2 cup of oatmeal in first ring and using measuring cup press down to create an indentation with sides. We want a big enough indentation to allow the egg to fit. Add remaining oatmeal (1/4 cup) to other ring and tamp down with measuring cup to create a flat disk. Add a small amount of grated cheese onto the oatmeal. Cook for ten minutes. Break an egg into the indentation and season with salt and pepper. Add a small amount grated cheese to top. Add to the pan a small amount of water (3-4 tablespoons) and cover with lid and cook for 3 minutes or until egg is desired doneness. Depending on the size of the egg, 3 minutes for a soft center to 5 minutes for a hard yolk. To assemble unmold each side and invert side without egg onto side with egg to make a cylinder and plate. Top with brown sugar, maple syrup or your favorite fruit. ![]() Here we are and it is fast approaching July 4th. Fire up the grills and stock up on hot dogs and hamburgers. What is more American than a hot dog? I met the owner of a hot dog stand at my local farmers market and said I would develop a bacon relish recipe that set his stand apart and help bring people back. I wanted to make something salty, sweet, spicy, and just the right amount of sourness, so everything is balanced. This recipe is the end result and is an amazing topping for your next hot dog but save some for breakfast; it goes great just on toast! Ingredients: 1 pound thick cut lean bacon 1 large red pepper 1 large poblano pepper 1 large sweet onion ½ cup brown sugar ¼ cup sweet pickle juice or white balsamic vinegar ¼ cup water to deglaze pan 2 to 4 tbsp. ketchup red pepper flakes to desired spiciness (start with a pinch and taste) Salt and pepper for seasoning Roast the red and poblano peppers over the flame on your stove or under the broiler in your oven. Turn often to char the skin and put in a paper bag to steam 5 minutes. Remove the skin, dice and reserve. Cook half of the bacon on a parchment covered sheet pan in a 400° F oven until brown and crispy. Crumble into small pieces and reserve. Finely dice the onion and rest of the bacon, season with salt and sauté on medium heat in butter until brown. Deglaze the pan with the water and turn the heat down to low. Add the rest of the bacon, roasted peppers, brown sugar, ketchup, red pepper flakes and mix. Taste and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper. Continue tasting, adding just enough pickle juice or white balsamic vinegar until it tastes balanced. Refrigerate until needed. Makes about a cup and a half. If you like it a little looser, add a little of your favorite liquid (I like a little dark beer) and stir. ![]() What pleases dad more then steak and eggs? Make it as a Benedict and it adds a touch of class. With Father's Day upon us, I want to approximate the classic steakhouse for breakfast. Filling in for the traditional English muffin, I want to substitute garlic toast, the Canadian bacon with a tenderloin filet, and filling in for the Hollandaise, the classic steakhouse favorite sauce, Béarnaise. If dad is vegetarian, no problem, just substitute a grilled portobello mushroom for the filet or if mushrooms are not your thing, try your favorite grilled vegetable. Dad deserves the best and this goes a long way to say that he is special. Ingredients: One 2 inch thick beef tenderloin 2 large eggs 2 3 inch rounds of bread Salt and Pepper to season Garlic clove 3 Tbsp Butter Béarnaise Sauce (recipe follows) Cut tenderloin into 2 one inch pieces and season on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat a skillet on medium high heat, add butter and sear to color each side. Lower the heat to low, then finish cooking the tenderloin to the desired doneness, basting with the butter. Keep warm. Toast bread and rub with garlic clove and reserve. Poach two eggs and keep warm until assembly. Place toast on plate and top with tenderloin, then poached egg and top with Béarnaise sauce. Béarnaise Sauce: Ingredients: 1 tsp. finely chopped shallot ¾ tsp. dried tarragon ½ cup white wine vinegar 5 crushed peppercorns 2 egg yolks 1 cup warm clarified butter Pinch cayenne pepper Add shallot, tarragon, vinegar and peppercorns to sauce pan on medium heat and reduce to 2/3 then cool. Warm water to a simmer in a saucepan then reduce heat to low. In a metal bowl, wisk egg yolks and vinegar mixture together over the hot water until the mixture lightens in color and starts to thicken. Wisk warm clarified butter slowly a few drop at a time into the yolk mixture letting it fully incorporate before adding more. After wisking all the butter wisk in the cayanne pepper, taste and correct the seasoning. If the mixture is too thick wisk in warm water a bit at a time until the right consistency is reached. Strain and reserve warm. ![]() I have a couple of announcements; first, I'm going to concentrate on a breakfast and brunch theme to better explain translation and second; I'm working on a book showcasing these concepts within the framework of breakfast. More on that later. Continuing on the Translation subset of substitution, I was reading Fuchsia Dunlop's new cookbook, "Every Grain of Rice - Simple Chinese Home Cooking" with the idea of adapting a Chinese home-style dish for breakfast. I found a recipe for stir-fried eggs with tomato and thought this would be the perfect recipe to show that substitution could be used to enhance a dish. The recipe is basic, perfect for the novice home cook; season and stir-fry the eggs first, then the tomatoes and then combine them together thickening with potato starch if needed. I wanted to add additional flavor to the dish, so I added fresh basil which always goes with tomatoes (Thai basil would even be better) and some five spice powder to enhance the anise notes and to reinforce the Asian theme. I know that I'm not actually making a true substitution, but adding something. The point is to use translation as an avenue to explore exciting new creations to become a more creative chef. Ingredients: 4 - 5 large eggs 4 - 5 firm Campari tomatoes (or another simular small vine ripened tomato) 4 - 6 basil leaves rolled and cut into thin ribbons (chiffonade) 1 pinch five spice powder 1 pinch sugar 2 - 4 Tbsp. cooking oil slurry of potato starch and water (optional for thickening) Salt and Pepper to taste Directions: Heat a wok and add half the oil. Beat the eggs with 1/4 teaspoon salt and scramble the eggs until just barely done. Remove and reserve. Roll the basil leaves into a cigar shape and with a very sharp knife finely slice into thin ribbons. Slice the tomatoes in half then each half into three wedges. Clean and dry the wok, then heat it on high and add the rest of the oil. When the oil is hot, add the tomatoes, season with the sugar, salt and pepper to taste and stir-fry until they are hot and fragrant. Add the basil, five spice powder and the eggs back to the wok and stir-fry until mixed together. If the mixture is runny add the potato starch slurry and mix until thickened. Serve immediately to feed two. ![]() A great Benedict deserves a great side dish. If you remember the scraps from the Southern Style Benedict from my last post; they can be diced, breaded and lightly fried to create chicken fried steak bites. Thus, our scraps from one dish can be used as inspiration to create another great dish. I remember having sweet potato fries with chicken fried steak so why not take two uniquely Southern tastes and combine them to create a hash. Dice some red bell pepper, vibrant green poblano chiles and some Vidalia sweet onion to create a colorful counterpoint to our Southern Style Benedict. Ingredients: 2 medium to large sweet potatoes remaining meat from Southern Benedict (½ inch dice) ½ cup milk 1 egg ½ large onion diced 1 small red pepper diced 1 small poblano chile diced 2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 sprigs fresh parsley 2-4 Tbsp. cooking oil Salt and Pepper to taste Directions: One day ahead, quarter two sweet potatoes and put in a pot of cold salted water. Bring the water to a boil and cook until a fork is easily inserted with little resistance. Cool and refrigerate overnight. In two small shallow dishes, add the flour to one and beat an egg in the other. Season the steak with salt and pepper then dredge in the flour fist, shaking off any excess. Next dip in the beaten egg then dredge in the flour again. Let rest on a wire rack. Heat the oil in a medium skillet, then fry in the oil until golden brown on both sides. Reserve warm until needed. Heat a skillet to medium heat and add half of the oil, heating until it shimmers. Add the diced onion, poblano and red peppers, season and cook until the onions are just starting to brown (about 10 minutes). Transfer to a bowl and reserve. Remove the thyme leaves and finely chop with the parsley. Remove the skin from the potatoes and dice to desired size. Add the rest of the oil to the pan on medium heat and heat until the oil is hot. Add the potatoes tossing to coat in the oil. If the mixture is dry add some more oil. Season with salt and pepper. The secret is to let the potatoes brown and crisp slowly turning only when brown on the bottom. When the potatoes are brown and crispy, add the reserved chicken fried steak tossing to combine. Add the reserved vegetable mixture, thyme and chopped parsley; toss and remove from the heat. Serve immediately. ![]() Earlier this month was Mother's Day and I fixed traditional Eggs Benedict for our monthly church breakfast. I love poached eggs and when you serve them on a crispy English muffin with grilled Canadian bacon covered with rich hollandaise sauce, there is a special dish. I want to add an example showcasing the first Translation technique, substitution. I have seen variations on Southern Benedicts at various restaurants, but here is my version. Examining the purely Southern theme, the English muffin can be replaced with a airy southern style biscuit (see Basics for recipe) and continuing with the theme, biscuits traditionally go with a country white milk gravy along with the prerequisite country fried steak. I prefer a more refined presentation so I like to use a circle cutter a little bit bigger then the one I use for biscuits to cut out perfect circles for my chicken fried steak. After breading and frying they will shrink a little and match the size of the biscuits. I can dice the rest of the meat, bread it and use it to make a complementary home fry side. Southern Style Eggs Benedict Ingredients: 2 biscuits split in half. (See Basics) 4 poached eggs (See Basics) Chicken Fried Steak (See Below) Country Style Spicy Gravy (See Below) Instructions: Split the biscuits in half and place on plate. Top with chicken fried steak, then a poached egg. Ladle gravy over top and serve immediately. Serves four with one egg each or two hungry people with two eggs each. The remaining beef can be used to make a special home fries dish. Chicken Fried Steak Ingredients: 1 pound beef (bottom round) 1 Cup all purpose flour 1 large egg 3 Tbsp. canola oil Salt and pepper to taste Instructions: Tenderize beef using a jacard or pounding with a meat tenderizer to a thickness of 1/2 inch. Using a ring cutter, cut a circular piece of steak slightly bigger than the diameter of the biscuit being used. The remainder can be used in an other application. In two small shallow dishes, add the flour to one and beat an egg in the other. Season both sides with salt and pepper then dredge in the flour fist, shaking off any excess. Next dip in the beaten egg then dredge in the flour again. Let rest on a wire rack. Heat the oil in a medium skillet, then fry each piece in the oil until golden brown on both sides. Reserve warm until needed. Country Style Spicy Gravy Ingredients: 2 pounds good quality pork sausage 1 large sweet onion finely diced 1 cup all purpose flour 1 tsp. dried thyme or 4 sprigs fresh thyme 1 pinch red pepper flakes Hot sauce to taste 2 cups whole milk Salt and pepper to taste Instructions: Heat a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat. When the pan is hot, skin and break up the sausage into small pieces, season with salt and cook until brown and most of the fat has rendered out into the pan. Remove the sausage and reserve retaining the fat in the pan. Add the onions and cook until they become translucent. Add the thyme and red pepper flakes and continue to cook until the onions just start to brown. Whisk in the flour and stir until fully mixed. This is in fact a roux. I need to continue to stir until the raw flour taste is gone which should take a minute. Continue to whisk and slowly add the milk. I now will increase the heat to medium high, stirring frequently, then when the mixture begins to boil I reduce the heat to low. Now is the time to season with salt and pepper to taste, and to add the hot sauce to achieve the heat you want. Keep warm until needed. |
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How does a good chef think? What is the creative process a chef uses to come up with new and exciting dishes? What do I need to know to enable that creative process? These are the questions I want to explore in this series of articles. As a chef and an avid cookbook collector I am drawn towards ideas and techniques of cooking rather than just a collection of recipes. I believe to grow as a chef, I need to continually learn and hone new techniques along with perfecting each technique I use every day. Whenever I go to a restaurant, whether fine dining, neighborhood pub, avant garde, or even fast food, I continually ask myself how can I do this better, what works and more important, what doesn’t? Feel free to send me comments, ask questions. Together, we can explore and make creative cuisine. Gord StefaniukSpending almost thirty years in the computing field, I was able to travel experiencing a wide variety of tremendous cuisine. First I became a foodie, and when the opportunity arose, I was able to attend culinary school following my passion. I work as a part-time private chef and volunteer time at the community café in North Bend Oregon providing affordable meals in a restaurant setting to my community. Archives
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